In the heart of St. Paul’s West Seventh neighborhood stands a modest limestone building that most passersby might mistake for a converted home. But behind those handblown windows and solid stone walls lies something far more remarkable: a pre-Civil War German lager saloon that has been meticulously restored to its 1850s glory—and is now brewing some of the most authentic German lagers in the Midwest.
For Tom Schroeder, the journey to founding Waldmann Brewery wasn’t just about opening another craft brewery. It was about saving a piece of American history that nearly disappeared forever.
A Building Saved from Demolition
“The Waldmann history is probably the greatest asset on our balance sheet,” Schroeder explains, “and it’s really the reason for the brewery, the reason for Waldmann.” But the story of how this historic building came to house a thriving brewery is as much about preservation as it is about beer.
Schroeder’s background as an attorney specializing in preservation law gave him a unique perspective on historic structures. For years, he handled cases involving everything from Civil War battlefields to individual houses under threat of demolition. But when he first encountered the limestone building in 1989, shortly after moving to the neighborhood, it captured his imagination in a way nothing else had.
“It was just a completely unique building, solid limestone,” he recalls. “Nobody had done an appropriate history of the structure.” The building was only five or six doors down from the house he and his wife would later restore, making it a constant presence in his daily life.
When the city threatened demolition in 2008, Schroeder made a decision that would change his life. This time, he wouldn’t be representing a client—he would take on the project himself. “I had no idea that it had been what it ultimately turned out to be, an original pre-Civil War German lager saloon,” he admits. “That knowledge came much later.”
The discovery was transformative. “I remember seeing the building 20 years earlier and saying, ‘If I ever got my hands on that, that could really change my life.’ And it did.” What followed was years of painstaking research, restoration, and a deep dive into what German lager culture meant in mid-19th century St. Paul.
The German Lager Tradition Lives On
Today, Waldmann is far more than a restored building—it’s a functioning brewery that honors the brewing traditions that made this neighborhood famous. “We’re a German lager brewery that respects our history and the history of the community we operate in,” Schroeder says. “We focus on traditional German lagers. We’re not an IPA or an ale house.”
This commitment to authenticity sets Waldmann apart in an era when IPAs dominated the craft beer landscape. When they first opened, they were doing pilsners before anyone else in the Twin Cities was interested in German lagers. “Everybody was stuck on IPAs,” Schroeder notes, “as many still are.”
But there’s a reason for this traditional focus, beyond mere historical accuracy. These German lager styles—pilsners, dunkels, altbiers, and weissbiers—were the world’s most popular beers until the late 1980s. Many people have simply forgotten what they taste like. Women in particular, Schroeder observes, often tell him they don’t think they’re beer drinkers because “their palates have been bombed by too much bittering, by over-hopped beers.”
When these guests try Waldmann traditional offerings, the response is often revelatory. “They’ll be like, ‘Wow, I haven’t had a beer like this anywhere else,'” he says. “What we’re serving them are, of course, the beers that were worldwide the most prominent styles, but people just aren’t familiar with them any longer.”
The brewery’s flagship, Waldmann Pilsner, serves as the perfect introduction to this philosophy. “We dignify our beers by their styles,” Schroeder emphasizes. “We’re never going to give it a silly name.” Instead of whimsical monikers, you’ll find straightforward designations: dunkel, pilsner, weissbier. The beer speaks for itself.
An Immersive Historical Experience
Walking into Waldmann is like stepping through a portal to another era. First-time visitors often don’t realize what they’re approaching. “Many people will ask me, ‘When did you convert this house into a brewery?’ And I’m like, guess what? That’s what it was built to be,” Schroeder explains with evident pride.
The building was constructed by carpenter and stonemason craftsmen who had “an intuitive understanding of human-scaled spaces.” Unlike converted warehouses that characterize many modern breweries, Waldmann was originally designed as a community establishment, and it shows. Guests sit around tables in relatively dim light, looking through wavy, handblown glass windows over candlelight, drinking the same styles of beer that would have been served in the mid-19th century.
Details That Transport
The attention to historical detail extends to every corner of the establishment. Waldmann houses what Schroeder believes is “the largest collection of mid-19th century whale oil lamps in the country,” the result of over 20 years of collecting. The lighting alone creates an atmosphere that can’t be replicated with modern fixtures.
Historic glassware and steins dating back to the late 1600s line the walls. A cannonball found in the building serves as a newel post. An 1860s original German Black Forest clock ticks in the background, its cuckoo still chiming from upstairs. Even the tables are authentic, with hardwood floors and wood furniture maintaining the period feel.
The beer garden, which dates back to the 1850s and 1860s, ranks as the Twin Cities’ oldest. In summer, it transforms into an elaborate display of flowers and decorations with strong lighting that, while not quite matching the finest beer gardens Schroeder has seen in Germany, comes impressively close. “In the Twin Cities, I think we have one of the most beautiful beer gardens around,” he says.
During the holiday season, a 28-foot Christmas tree dominates the beer garden, serving as the centerpiece for their St. Nicholas Day tree lighting ceremony on December 5th. The celebration includes an appearance by the Krampus—the fearsome Alpine monsters of German and Austrian lore—making it one of the most photographed events of the year.
Community at the Heart
While the history and architecture draw people in, it’s the sense of community that keeps them coming back. “We welcome all regardless of their interest in history or architecture or even beer,” Schroeder says. “It’s a community place.”
This philosophy manifests in everything from their family-friendly beer garden—where kids can play in the grass and gravel while parents enjoy their lagers—to their communal seating arrangements. Beer garden tables seat twelve, meaning guests often find themselves sharing space with strangers. “Wonderful conversations and connections come out of that,” Schroeder notes.
The brewery has also become known for its distinctive events that celebrate German-American heritage while bringing the neighborhood together. Their Oktoberfest, which Schroeder describes as “bringing back the original Oktoberfest before they became drunk fests,” runs for six days over two weekends. With 28 to 30 different groups performing traditional German and Polish polka music from noon to 10 p.m., it’s become the brewery’s biggest event of the year.
Sundays during Oktoberfest are explicitly designed for families, featuring puppet shows, jugglers, and music geared toward children. “That’s really sweet to see,” Schroeder reflects on the multigenerational participation.
Other events throughout the year showcase the brewery’s commitment to both tradition and community education. On March 12th, they host Beer Stabbing (Bier Stahlen)—an authentic German tradition where a blacksmith forge is rolled out to the beer garden to heat iron pokers to 900 degrees, which are then plunged into guests’ bock beer, creating caramelized, almost marshmallow-like flavors.
Decoration Day on Memorial Day weekend features Civil War reenactors and 19th-century fife and drum music. “Little known fact, but many Civil War soldiers were recruited at saloons,” Schroeder explains, noting how the event offers a unique way to honor military history without “trudging through cemeteries.”
New Year’s Eve brings a particularly creative tradition: a 5 p.m. countdown to midnight in Munich, Germany, accompanied by free bowls of Mitternachtsuppe (midnight soup) that Schroeder personally warms over a wood fire in the beer garden. “It’s a really direct and personal thank you to all of our supporters throughout the year,” he says.
The Art and Science of Traditional Brewing
Behind the romantic atmosphere and historical authenticity lies serious brewing expertise. Head brewer Matt Wilder, who came to Waldmann from Insight Brewing with experience at three other Twin Cities breweries, has become known for his mastery of traditional decoction brewing—a complex, time-intensive process that few modern breweries attempt.
“These older, more nuanced styles are much more vulnerable, much more difficult to brew, particularly if you’re doing decoction style brewing like we do 100%,” Schroeder explains. This commitment to traditional methods has attracted attention from brewers across the country, including recent visits from Dan Carey of New Glarus Brewing and Leopold Vunk from Alderbräu in Germany.
One aspect of the brewing operation that Schroeder wishes more people understood is their specialized side-pour Lukr taps, which are specifically designed for tank beer. Four of their bright tanks are lined directly to the beer hall, dispensing naturally spunded beers that aren’t being forced or recarbonated through the lines. “They’re direct from brewery to your stein or your tankard,” he says.
The art of the pour itself is taken seriously. Following Czech tradition, servers can vary the head from a cream foam to a hard foam to a soft, bubbly aerated foam. “There’s a whole art to that,” Schroeder notes, adding that he loves when knowledgeable beer enthusiasts catch a server who might be rushing and not pouring according to proper standards. “Matt, our brewer’s standard for pours are a really important aspect of who and what we are because he gets to control his beer from the recipe development all the way to the dispensing.”
The brewery releases 25 to 35 different styles per year, taking full advantage of the freedom that comes with being a brewpub rather than a distribution brewery. Recent experiments have included historical recreations, such as their homage to Joseph Schlitz, who Schroeder believes introduced adjunct brewing to Minnesota in the 1860s. They’ve also experimented with variations within styles, like adding a touch of beechwood smoke flavoring to their Helles beer.
More Than Just Beer
Waldmann is also a full restaurant, serving what Schroeder describes as “German-American comfort food.” Their giant pretzels from Milwaukee are the undisputed bestseller, made with a malt-derived batter that pairs perfectly with their lagers. The pretzels can be ordered with a full charcuterie board or simply with their in-house-made mustards, including a distinctive blueberry-blackberry variety.
Other menu highlights include Minnesota walleye, four different kinds of bratwurst (including an all-vegan option), and both traditional fruit strudel and a newer chocolate walnut strudel called Waldmann Brocken. They’ve even developed a quirky wine list focused on Central European selections, added after Schroeder made the difficult decision to drop their beer distribution license to obtain an on-site liquor license.
“We wanted to offer wine as an alternative to our patrons,” he explains. “We’re not offended by that.” It’s another example of how Waldmann prioritizes the guest experience over rigid adherence to being only a brewery.
Looking Forward While Honoring the Past
Schroeder’s vision for Waldmann extends beyond running a successful brewery. The establishment has become a hub for historic preservation advocacy, hosting bimonthly gatherings for Rethos, a preservation-focused nonprofit. They’ve even formed a political action committee to influence local politicians on preservation issues in St. Paul and statewide.
“I know that sounds against my own economic interest,” Schroeder admits when discussing his decision not to tear down surrounding structures for parking, “but I live in this community, too, and I care about it.” This philosophy—putting community and preservation ahead of convenience—permeates every aspect of Waldmann operation.
The brewery also serves as an educational space, hosting art openings, book signings, history presentations, and collaborations with the Minnesota Historical Society. These events reflect Schroeder’s belief that Waldmann should be “for all stripes and flavors,” welcoming everyone from history buffs to beer nerds to families just looking for a unique place to gather.
Perhaps most tellingly, Waldmann has no television screens. “We joke there’s there Waldmann has its own internet in a way because people connect to one another,” Schroeder explains. “You’re not going to see a lot of people sitting around silently looking at their phones and not talking to one another. There’s something about the environment that really encourages conversations.”
Raising a Stein to What’s Next
As craft beer trends continue to evolve, with German lager styles experiencing a resurgence nationwide, Waldmann finds itself perfectly positioned. What once seemed like a contrarian commitment to tradition now looks like prescient vision. Brewers tired of the IPA arms race are rediscovering the nuanced complexity of properly made lagers, and Waldmann has been there all along, quietly perfecting the art.
For Schroeder, the success of Waldmann validates what he instinctively knew back in 1989 when he first saw that limestone building: that some things are worth saving, that history has value beyond nostalgia, and that the past can offer a blueprint for building community in the present.
When asked what he wants first-time visitors to take away from their experience, his answer captures the essence of what makes Waldmann special: “I’d want them to try the Waldmann Pilsner from our Lukr taps with a Milwaukee pretzel, and end their evening making sure the servers brought them one of our 1850s two-font whale oil candles. Just take in the vibe around you. Notice the cannonball, the 1860s German Black Forest clock ticking, the historic glassware and steins on the walls, the original art. Appreciate that full atmosphere—none of those things should be missed.”
It’s this combination—exceptional beer, authentic historical environment, and genuine community spirit—that has transformed a building slated for demolition into one of St. Paul’s most beloved gathering places. Waldmann stands as proof that sometimes the best way forward is to honor where we’ve been, one perfectly poured pilsner at a time.
For more information about Waldmann Brewery, including parking details, upcoming events, and their full menu, visit their website or sign up for their newsletter. Tom Schroeder personally welcomes inquiries at [email protected] and is happy to give tours of the brewery and building to interested visitors, especially with advance notice for larger groups. The brewery operates on a walk-in basis without reservations, creating a spontaneous, welcoming atmosphere where new friends are always just a shared table away.
