In the heart of Milwaukee, a city steeped in brewing tradition, Lakefront Brewery stands as a testament to innovation, community, and the enduring power of a friendly family rivalry. What began as a homebrewing competition between two brothers has evolved into a 37,000-barrel-a-year operation that is as much a cultural institution as it is a brewery. From pioneering the American gluten-free beer movement to hosting one of the nation’s most famous brewery tours, Lakefront has carved out a unique identity that is, in the words of its president and co-founder Russ Klisch, “about as Milwaukee as you can get.”
During a conversation with Henry, Russ Klisch shared the rich history and vibrant present of the brewery he started with his brother, Jim. His story is one of passion, resourcefulness, and a deep-seated love for the craft and the community it fosters. It’s a narrative that flows from a sticky kitchen floor to the bustling banks of the Milwaukee River, where Lakefront now welcomes locals and tourists alike to share in a truly authentic Milwaukee experience.
A Brewery Born from Brotherly Competition
Every great story has a beginning, and Lakefront Brewery’s starts not in a boardroom, but with a birthday wish. Around 1982, when Russ asked his brother Jim what he wanted for his birthday, the answer was simple: he was thinking about making beer. Russ obliged, gifting him a book on homebrewing. Jim not only read it but put it into practice, brewing a batch that, despite making a mess of the kitchen, surprisingly “wasn’t that bad.” This sparked a classic sibling rivalry. “I figured, you know, if he could make a batch that good, I could do better,” Russ recalls.
The friendly competition escalated as the brothers began entering their homemade beers into contests, both of them winning ribbons for their creations. The success fueled a bigger dream: opening their own brewery. Lacking the capital for a large-scale operation, they embraced a philosophy of caution and ingenuity. “We started a brewery as small as possible to lose the least amount of money,” Russ explains. In 1987, Lakefront Brewery was officially born, operating out of a small space with what Russ describes as an “overgrown home brewery” built from 55-gallon drums. They started by selling to just four taverns in their River West neighborhood, but the beer quickly grew popular.
Growth was a scrappy, piece-by-piece process. The brothers discovered they could repurpose used dairy equipment, bringing in one piece at a time to expand their capacity and keep up with demand. This resourceful spirit defined their early years and laid the foundation for a business that never lost its hands-on, homegrown feel. While Russ admits he may have won more homebrewing ribbons, he gives his brother full credit for creating their flagship beer, the River West Stein, and for helping establish the brewery’s legendary tour. “Both of us have contributed significantly to the operation,” Russ affirms, highlighting the partnership that remains at the brewery’s core.
The Heartbeat of Milwaukee
To understand Lakefront Brewery is to understand Milwaukee. Russ proudly states that the brewery encapsulates everything iconic about the city: “beer in industry, a river, cream city brick building, fish fry, cheese curds, everything you think about Milwaukee is here.” This isn’t just a marketing slogan; it’s the lived experience at their sprawling beer hall and taproom on the banks of the Milwaukee River. The brewery has become a destination, attracting not only regulars from down the street but also a steady stream of tourists looking for an authentic taste of the local culture.
The brewery cultivates this community atmosphere through a diverse calendar of events designed to bring people through the doors year-round. From Drag Queen Bingo and trivia nights to makers’ markets, there’s always something happening. The Friday night fish fry is a particularly cherished tradition, a family-friendly affair complete with a two-piece polka band and the original bubble machine from the Lawrence Welk show. Russ notes that on Fridays, the beer hall can sometimes feel like “a Chuck-E-Cheese” with all the kids running around, but he sees it as a joy. “It’s always refreshing to see him trying to do the chicken dance with his grandma up there,” he says, painting a picture of multi-generational fun.
More Than a Tour, It’s an Experience
While the beer is the main product, the brewery tour is arguably its most famous offering. Recognized as one of the best in the country, Lakefront’s tour breaks from the dry, technical presentations common elsewhere. Russ learned early on that people come on tours for two reasons: “They want to drink beer and they want to be entertained.” The secret to their success was realizing that serving beer before the tour was crucial. With a beer in hand, visitors relax, listen, and “laugh at all your bad jokes.”
The tour guides are given the freedom to develop their own material, resulting in a performance that is often humorous, unscripted, and, as Russ cautions, not always “PG.” The 50-minute tour is packed with entertainment, from fan-favorite jokes to a rousing group sing-along of the theme from Laverne & Shirley. It’s an interactive, memorable experience that treats the brewing equipment as just one part of a larger show, ensuring that visitors leave with a smile on their face and a deeper appreciation for the brewery’s fun-loving personality. For anyone planning a visit, Russ strongly recommends booking a tour reservation online in advance, as they frequently sell out.
Pouring Innovation Into Every Glass
At the heart of Lakefront’s success is, of course, the beer. The brewery maintains a core lineup of eight or nine year-round beers, anchored by classics and complemented by a spirit of experimentation. The flagship, River West Stein, is a perfectly balanced amber lager that Russ calls a “middle pallet beer”—approachable but with more body and character than a standard lager. Their West Coast IPA is another long-standing favorite, having been sold for over 25 years, making it one of the oldest and best-selling IPAs in the state. Alongside their popular Hazy Rabbit IPAs, Lakefront is renowned for its lagers, including the East Side Dark, a Bavarian Schwarzbier that has become their most award-winning beer. For Russ, the benchmark of a great beer is simple: “If you can drink two and you want a third, that’s a good beer.”
A Gluten-Free Revolution and Local Flavors
Perhaps Lakefront’s most significant contribution to the craft beer world came in 2005, when it became the first brewery in the United States to receive federal government approval to produce a gluten-free beer. What started as an experimental venture has become a cornerstone of their business, with gluten-free beer now accounting for nearly 15% of their total production. This commitment extends beyond the bottle; during the summer, they even operate gluten-free food trucks on the Riverwalk, serving items like fish fry and cheese curds to a grateful audience.
Lakefront’s innovative spirit is also reflected in its sourcing. Russ has been a long-time member of the Midwest Hop and Barley Co-op, a group of brewers dedicated to buying from local growers. They have brewed with local heirloom barley, which many believe has more flavor than modern, high-yield varieties, and have experimented with other local crops like Kernza and blue corn from a farm in Janesville, Wisconsin. This dedication to local partnerships is further embodied in the “My Turn” series, where every employee gets a chance to design and brew their own beer four times a year, complete with a release party. It’s a program that fosters creativity and ensures the tap list is always full of surprises.
Charting the Future of Craft Beer
Looking ahead, Russ Klisch sees the craft beer industry continuing to evolve. He identifies several key trends on the horizon, including the rise of THC-infused beverages, which Lakefront plans to explore. Another major movement is the growing demand for low-alcohol, “sessionable” beers around 3% ABV. This aligns with a broader “health and wellness” trend, as consumers look for flavorful options that allow them to socialize without overindulging.
Lakefront stays dynamic by embracing a robust seasonal rotation. Following their popular Oktoberfest and the nation’s longest-running Pumpkin Lager, they will release a winter stout, a Maibock in the spring, and a wheat beer for the summer. This seasonal rhythm, combined with barrel-aged special releases and the ever-changing “My Turn” beers, ensures there is always something new to try.
Ultimately, Russ encourages beer lovers to explore the rich and varied landscape of Wisconsin’s craft scene, recommending nearby breweries like Raised Grain, Black Husky, and Eagle Park. His message to potential visitors is a warm invitation to experience Milwaukee culture firsthand. “Come for a visit,” he urges. “Get some good Milwaukee culture that we have here from our cheese curds, sausages, pretzels that we all have here and our beer, and sit out on the river and watch the boats go by.” For anyone visiting, his top three recommendations are a perfect summary of the Lakefront experience: the River West Stein, the cheese curds, and a tour. It’s a combination that captures the history, flavor, and fun that have made Lakefront Brewery a beloved Milwaukee icon.
To learn more about Lakefront Brewery, check out their website: https://lakefrontbrewery.com/.
